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Odds 'n ends of information.

Here is where I'll share what I've learned and/or been told over the years. This does not mean it applies to you or your rig, it's just my 2 cents worth to provoke some thought.

If you have something to share and need an outlet please feel free to email me and I'll post it here on your behalf with appropriate notation/credit as to source.

Getting all six off the ground.

I was told many years ago, by whom I can't remember, to follow this sequence when jacking up front and back so as to get all wheels off the ground: first jack up each the rear, either side first. Then jack up the front.
The reasoning is that the font axle will flex as one side is jacked and then the other. If the front is jacked/blocked the frame must twist as it looses that flex.

The manual may already have this in there but I thought I'd mention it here in case you read manual like I do (I.e. afterwards, most of the time).

Also, I make it a habit of using a piece of 2x4 on top of each safety stand so as to distribute the impact to the frame over a larger area.

Loose bolts/nuts:

When I had the exhaust done recently I did as I normally do whenever I have the chance... and that is to look around the rig. This time I noticed that the nuts/bolts holding the drive axle on the right side were backed off. Not sure how long. I'd like to think I hadn't missed it for 20k+, i.e. since the tranny was done.

Watch them bolts.jpg (220472 bytes)



AC Coil / Pulley failure:

I've had a problem with AC since switching to serpentine. It could very well be the AC compressor that's actually causing it but somehow heat got generated and the pulley stalled, burning the belt off.

I have a new pulley installed but ran the last trip without using the AC. Perhaps next trip I'll get brave. Problem is that if compressor maintainance is needed it's goodbye to freon.

Cooked AC Coil.jpg (198140 bytes)The coil got enough heat to start melting the epoxy.


Steering 101 / Wiggle wagoneers: please read this.

After my last alignment I had to work harder at keeping the rig straight.

I thought that perhaps since the wheels were now running true something else reared it's ugly head, which of course it did. I assumed it might be the lack  of steering damper or worn out steering box or that it was being caused by toad.

Long story short, I was told how to adjust the steering box and it's driving like new, without wiggle, even in the interstate ruts. Here is what I did: Loosen the locknut  a turn or better, i.e. not just enough to unlock the allen screw loosen the allen screw, wiggle the steering wheel and loosend it some more using allen wrench. be sure the nut is far enough off to be sure it will not tighten first. now turn the nut itself back in to tighten it. no allen wrench is used for this.this will the allen screw will make contact first. continue to tighten the locknut. still no allen wrench used.

Apparently the tension provided by tightening of the locknut is usually
exactly right. It certainly worked in my case. I would not have believed it had I not experienced/done it myself. Apparently it is a common mistake to tighten the adjustment more than necessary during an alignment, even by the most expert. My own misconception was that tighter means better or rather that the adjustment was left too loose so I tightened it a 1/4 turn more, which didn't change handling. While I was being set straight it was explained that if the adjustment is too tight, oversteering occurs because it takes more pressure. It was
explained that if too tight it'll appear to wander, too loose and more steering wheel travel required, but no wander.

Steering damper has nothing to do with wander/no-wander. As I said, I would not have believed the difference has someone just told me. If you've tried all else and he coach still wiggles excessivley, perhaps give this procedure a try.

The '76 Transmode now travels straight as an arrow again (at no cost).

This page was last updated: Monday, April 26, 2004 05:53 PM